Hidden Gems for Kayak Paddling in Sweden

Hidden Gems for Kayak Paddling in Sweden

Our world-unique coastline

Sweden has a very long coastline. It stretches several hundred miles from the Norwegian border in the west, rounds Skåne and Sweden's most south-easterly corner in Blekinge, and reaches all the way up to the Torne River at the Finnish border. The distance is approximately 2,500 km, not counting all inlets and bays. If all headlands and inlets are included, the distance becomes many times greater. The entire stretch is a truly unique paradise for touring paddling by kayak. The variations and contrasts between different coastal sections are naturally considerable. The archipelagos in Bohuslän, Blekinge and the Svealand coast including Stockholm's archipelago are relatively sheltered from winds. Other sections such as the Halland coast, the Skåne coast and most of the Norrland coast are open to the sea and offer entirely different experiences and challenges for the touring paddler.

The Bohuslän coast

Bohuslän's scenic archipelago is characterised by rocky shores and similarly rocky islands and skerries with little vegetation. The bare cliffs are a hallmark. The entire coastal section is suitable for touring paddling with the exception of the area closest to Gothenburg. The approach to the Nordic region's largest port is directly dangerous to pass for canoeists. During the peak holiday season, the small boat traffic along the coast, particularly along the north-south shipping lane, is also very troublesome. But if you avoid this, the paddling here is pleasant and offers lovely experiences. My own favourite areas are the archipelagos around the west coast's largest island Orust and around Marstrand. On Orust there are several kayak rental companies. You can, for example, paddle on the west side from Gullholmen down to Käringön sheltered from winds, visit the authentic old fishing villages and if you wish experience ocean waves in the sounds between the islands facing the open sea. Orust kajak at Stockens Camping near Ellös on Orust (www.orustkajak.se) is one of several kayak rental companies. The Marstrand archipelago is one of the west coast's absolute gems. The well-collected archipelago around Marstrandsön, Koön and Instön to name a few is well-defined with many narrow sounds, channels, small islands and skerries with bathing rocks. Avoid the open Marstrandsfjorden to the north and the bays south of Albrektsundskanalen. Marstrandskajaker (www.marstrandskajaker.se) rents kayaks; located on Södra Strandgatan just before the ferry terminal for the ferries to Marstrandsön.

Blekinge archipelago

Blekinge archipelago constitutes the southernmost major and contiguous island world in the Baltic Sea. Here you'll find nearly a thousand islands and skerries. My hidden gem here is Hällaryd's archipelago just east of Karlshamn. Parts of the archipelago are designated as a nature reserve for recreational outdoor activities. Several suitable starting points exist, including Matvik near Karlshamn and Järnavik. The archipelago is varied and mostly well sheltered from winds. The passage from Järnavik and Tjärö towards Mjöösund is however exposed, especially to southerly winds. Alböleudde is a notorious passage. Haröskärv is a skerry just east of Harö that is worth a visit in calm weather. Furthest south as the last outpost towards the open sea lies Tärnö. Go ashore on the north side. A bathing beach is found on the south side. Kayak rental is available in Järnavik (www.paddelkompaniet.se).

City paddling in Kalmar

In the south-eastern corner of Sweden lies Kalmar, once the country's gateway to the world. Blekinge was Danish and Gothenburg barely established and long contested. The archipelago just south of the city, Västra Sjön, and above all the entire central Kalmar which is built on islands with canals in between and surrounded by bays, is a suitable area for day trips by kayak. Paddle, for example, through the moat around the magnificent Vasa Castle. If you want a longer trip, paddle to Rafshagens camping just north of the city. A good launch point in the centre is at Kalmar kajak at Vattentornsparken. There you can also rent kayak and SUP board.

Misterhult's archipelago

On the northern Småland coast lies Misterhult's archipelago, one of the east coast's gems for touring paddling. Part of the area is a nature reserve. Here you'll find several bird sanctuaries and seal protection areas. Birdlife is rich. The archipelago is fairly shallow with masses of islands and skerries to rest at. Several old fishing villages, now mostly summer residences, can be visited on the larger islands. You can start at Blankaholm, at Hornsudde, in Västervik or from Lysingsbadet just outside Västervik. Kayak rental is available at Hornsudde among other places. An example of a pleasant day trip from there is to pass through the sound at Spårö båk, one of the country's oldest sea markers, and reach the archipelago around Krokö and Idö with its former pilot station. An inshore paddle that leaves you wanting more.

S:t Anna

Östergötland's archipelago is wide and encompasses several well-known archipelagos. The most renowned among paddlers is S:t Anna Archipelago, my absolute favourite among Swedish archipelagos. This finely sculpted archipelago consists of a maze of islands that with their usually low profiles require you to be precise with your navigation. Avoid the main shipping lane and you can peacefully enjoy the tranquility. The best overview is from Kupa klint, also called Missjö kupa, on the island of Kupan with a stone cairn on top from which you have a magnificent panoramic view to the horizon. Just beyond lies the open sea. Birdlife is very rich. There are plenty of white-tailed eagles here. Start from Tyrislöts camping or from S:t Anna skärgårds kajakuthyrning (www.stannakajak.se) at Tyrislöt; located where the road ends furthest out on Norra Finnö.

Stendörren in Sörmland

The Sörmland archipelago is almost as extensive as Östergötland's but has a somewhat different character with larger islands and open bays in between. A few smaller archipelagos stand out, however, with an entirely different character; above all Stendörren in Nyköping's northern archipelago. The Stendörren Nature Reserve's archipelago section is unique of its kind. In a small area, the archipelago's various landscape types are represented, from inner archipelago to outer archipelago. A Nature Centre located next to one of the east coast's most well-known shipping lanes enhances your own experiences with easily accessible information. The beautiful landscape where sea and land meet provides an intense nature experience. You can combine the paddling trip with a hike within the reserve. On the islands connected to the mainland there are numerous barbecue sites and rest areas. Launch your kayak at Stendörren's floating dock for canoes next to the far parking area.

Stockholm's archipelago

Stockholm's vast archipelago stretches from Landsort in the south to Örskär in the north. Here you'll find inner archipelago as well as middle and outer archipelago. The inner archipelago and large parts of the middle archipelago are unfortunately developed and thus not so accessible to the public, although many exceptions exist. The outer archipelago, however, offers pristine paddling areas but is simultaneously more demanding due to exposure to winds. Small boat traffic is also very heavy at times, mainly in the shipping lanes. Skärgårdsstiftelsen in Stockholm County (www.skargardsstiftelsen.se) owns and manages 12% of all land in the archipelago and administers 40 nature reserves that are intended for public recreation. The foundation's headquarters are on Skeppsholmen in Stockholm and each year publishes a free publication, an area guide, with descriptions of all its areas. These are excellent destinations for touring paddling. My favourites in the southern archipelago are Järflotta south of Nynäshamn and the archipelago around Långviksskär outside Nämndö. The Björnö reserve on Ingarö can be reached by car and bus. There you can also rent kayaks (www.kajakeriet.com). In the northern archipelago, the Möja archipelago reserve is a vast and exciting paddling area. Outside Norrtälje, the archipelago around Arholma, Lidö and Fejan is an interesting alternative. Regular boat services run here and kayak rental (www.fejanoutdoor.se) is available on Fejan.

The Norrland coast

From the Dal River's outlet in Gävlebukten in the south, the long Norrland coast stretches along the Bothnian Sea and the Bothnian Bay all the way up to the Torne River in the north. This coast is largely open to the sea without protective islands near the shore. On some coastal stretches, however, there are very interesting and exciting areas to paddle through. My own favourites are the High Coast in Ångermanland and the archipelago in the northern Bothnian Bay, primarily the Luleå archipelago.

The High Coast

The High Coast area stretches from the Ångerman River's mouth just north of Härnösand up to Skags udde outside Örnsköldsvik. The entire area is classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and constitutes a very unique environment. The area is fairly limited but contains great drama. The coast plunges steeply into the sea. Deep inlets and bays cut far into the land. Paddling here can be a real challenge as there is at least in the southern part a long distance between islands. The southern part, up to Bönhamn, is very exposed in windy weather and it can be difficult to go ashore in many places. Rebounding waves near the shores can be a problem. The coast is inaccessible but magnificent in its wildness. However, the coastal stretch also offers several very interesting destinations. The fishing village of Bönhamn, Högbonden lighthouse, the Ulvö islands with red granite and fermented herring, Trysunda with sandy beaches and a hostel are good examples of destinations for a paddler. Just experiencing the light is fantastic! The long-lingering, sweeping evening light of summer dramatically highlights the drama of the landscape and the rolling evening swells of the Bothnian Sea. You can rent kayaks in Bönhamn among other places (www.bonhamnkajak.se)

Luleå archipelago

The northern part of the Bothnian Bay is home to our northernmost archipelago. The islands are relatively spread out with large open bays in between. Several of the islands are actually large sand bars that have risen above sea level due to post-glacial land uplift. There is no crowding here. You can easily find long sandy beaches where you can rest or camp overnight in solitary majesty. Some favourites are Junkön's northern tip with its guest harbour, Storbrändön's south side and Hindersön. The latter is home to the Jopikgården restaurant where local delicacies are offered to hungry kayak paddlers. South of the Luleå archipelago, roughly halfway to Piteå, lies my favourite Nord-Mörön where a magnificent sandbank has connected the island with the adjacent Möröskäret. Another very interesting destination is Haparanda Sandskär which forms its own national park. It lies far out in the sea and requires stable calm weather to paddle to.

From Bonden lighthouse you have this view southward over the High Coast's dramatic landscape.

The post-glacial land uplift at the High Coast has left this old boat slip far from the shore. Along this entire coastal stretch you can see the effects of the land uplift clearly in many places.