Arctic Sea Kayak Ramble

Along the rugged Norwegian coast, just north of Lofoten, lies the island group Vesterålen. The county is called Nordland. One of the larger islands in this archipelago is called Andøya, known as a starting point for whale safaris out into the North Atlantic. The scenery is nothing short of magnificent. The terrain resembles a wild alpine landscape with high mountains plunging steeply into the sea, alternating with low islands with sandy beaches. Just off Andøya lies Tindsøya. Here in a secluded bay lies Skipnes, a depopulated fishing village with a disused small fish factory. With Skipnes as a base, an annual gathering for kayakers from around the world was organized here: the Arctic Sea Kayak Ramble. And here, a group of enthusiastic sea paddlers from Brunnsvikens kanotklubb in Stockholm made their way.

The base for Arctic Sea Kayak Ramble, the depopulated fishing village of Skipnes on Tindsøya in Nordland County in northernmost Norway. In sunshine, it looks truly idyllic. But no fishing boats land at the quay anymore.

Exotic and exciting for southerners

With a fully loaded canoe trailer in tow, we get to experience how large -- or at least how long -- our country is. We think we have arrived when we reach Narvik. But the narrow road that in an endless number of curves winds its way around the mountains on one side and the sea on the other, continuing up toward Vesterålen, seems to never end. Our destination is Kråkberget, a jetty in a fjord surrounded by high mountains. It is drizzling and blowing hard. From here, the next day we are to paddle just under ten kilometers out to Tindsøya. We hunker down in our tents, well anchored with lines against the wind. When we paddle out to the final destination, the wind has subsided somewhat but rain and dry spells alternate. A support boat carries our luggage. It is July, full summer in Stockholm, but here we are far north of the Arctic Circle in near-arctic conditions with temperatures of 10-14 degrees. There are often dry spells but daily rain showers alternate with snow or hail showers. The wind is constantly fresh, alternating with gale force. For us it is exotic and exciting; for the local paddlers, it is just another day.

The Atlantic waves get high

About a hundred paddlers gather at the harbor bay. The participants come from many different countries, mainly Europeans but also from other continents. A long day trip awaits us. And we get to feel the Atlantic waves. But the first hours are deceptively calm. On the beach of the small island Sandholmen, masses of colorful kayaks lie pulled up when we take a break. It makes a festive impression. People are happy, exhilarated, and well bundled up. We head out onto the wide, open Börröyfjorden. Fortunately, given the balance factor, it is headwind paddling in a straight westerly course. For suddenly the swells rise like a steep wall before us. In the wave troughs, the view is nonexistent; on the dizzying wave crests, the entire North Atlantic seems to lie before us. A rocking support boat picks up those who capsize. We round the steep, high mountain Tinden and relax when we escape the worst waves. Once ashore, several paddlers pack up and leave the event early. It simply became too much and too difficult for some participants.

Break in the lee of the wind before we head out into Börröyfjorden. Masses of colorful kayaks lie beached on the small island Sandholmen.

In the realm of the wild

It is not only the landscape around us that is wild. We truly find ourselves in the realm of the wild. Wildlife is richly represented. Flocks of white-tailed eagles, often in pairs, soar high above us and along the mountain sides. The parrots of the North, the puffins, dive surprisingly fearlessly for food just a few meters from the kayaks. They surface with small fish dangling from their colorful beaks and regard us with their squinting, friendly eyes. A porpoise makes a long leap just ahead of our bows. The waters are rich in whales, but unfortunately we do not spot any.

Tinden's general store and post office

Below the mountain Tinden, a few white-painted houses huddle together. Here there is a general store that also serves as a post office. The shopkeeper, 85 years young, eagerly waves us in for a visit as we paddle past. He is a well-known character in the area. If you want to buy something, you put money in the open cash register and make your own change. For a nearly symbolic price, we are treated to waffles while the shopkeeper tells tall tales. From a special freezer, he shows us some deep-frozen trophies: a seal, a white-tailed eagle, and a Christmas tree.

A Russian shipwreck and warm clothes

One trip takes us across the rolling, open Börröyfjorden to Skogsøya. On the way back, we pass the wreck of a Russian warship lying upside down next to a skerry. Beside it, local jokers have built a miniature submarine from large stones that supposedly sank the vessel. A week of intense sea kayaking concludes with an unofficial world championship marathon for sea kayaks. Some club mates participate. We older paddlers abstain. The course is too exposed -- it runs partly on completely open sea and feels far too risky. And unnecessarily long. Instead, we paddle at a calm pace back to Kråkberget, enjoying the fantastic landscape and nature experience, and join the other participants at a hotel in Sortland, the nearest municipal center. A joint banquet with prize ceremony. And warm rooms. For the first time in a week, after a warm shower, we can put on truly dry clothes. And we can skip the only functioning shower at Skipnes -- the one with ice-cold fjord water.