Start and finish: Trosa havsbad and Sollenkroka brygga.

Distance: 167 km

Difficulty: The described route is challenging in windy weather, but an alternative route closer to the mainland is less exposed. In calm weather, moderate difficulty.

The trip offers: Outer archipelago and open bays, open sea, iconic archipelago settings, famous lighthouse sites, historic customs and pilot stations, nature center.

From Trosa into Stockholm's southern archipelago

Trosa is said to be the end of the world, but despite that – or perhaps because of it – it's a great starting point for a trip through Stockholm's southern archipelago. From Trosa havsbad, we paddle past the Julafton lighthouse and along a chain of smaller islands that provide shelter from the open sea. After Fifång comes a longer crossing of just under two kilometers across the shipping lane into Södertälje. The fog lies thick and we listen intently for approaching vessels. Just as we've made it across, a ship silently emerges from the fog, but by then we're already past. As we pass Örudden at the far tip of Torö, we can make out the Landsort lighthouse on the island of Öja almost directly to the south. Now we've entered Stockholm's archipelago and gradually turn northward. After the wide bay toward Järflotta and an overnight stay on the Arnholmarna islands, we pass the narrow strait called Draget with remains of old pilings. This narrow waterway was part of King Valdemar's Sailing Route, a navigation description from the 1200s.

King Valdemar's Sailing Route

More than 700 years ago, a document was recorded describing the sea route along the Swedish Baltic coast from the island of Utlängan in Blekinge to Arholma in Stockholm's northern archipelago. The sailing route then continues eastward via Åland and Finland's southern coast, ending in Reval, present-day Tallinn in Estonia. The navigation description mentions a long list of place names along the coast. The document is part of King Valdemar's cadastral book from the 1200s. The author of the cadastral book was the Danish king Valdemar II Sejr, who reigned between 1202 and 1241. In 1219, he conquered Estonia, which then came under Danish rule until 1346.

Approaching Utö

When we glimpse Nynäshamn over the tree line to the north, we turn eastward. Ahead of us lie two completely open bays, Gårdsfjärden and Danziger Gatt, with the small island of Mällsten between them. Light wind and sunshine make the mile-long crossing possible. If the wind picks up here, a crossing is not recommended. A flock of Razorbills fly curiously just above our heads before we reach Nåttarö with its welcoming sandy beaches to rest at. From here, weather permitting, we plan to paddle through the outer archipelago past Huvudskär, Fjärdlång, and Bullerö to Sollenkroka on Vindö, just north of Stavsnäs. On many of the islands we pass, remains of fortifications are visible – for example on Mällsten and the east side of Utö – dating from the wartime years of the last century. We spend the night on a small islet outside Hamnudden on Utö.

Visit to Huvudskär and meeting with a paddling friend

Huvudskär lies farthest east in this part of the archipelago and farthest out toward the open sea. In summer heat, sunshine, and a light breeze, we first pass the remarkably dome-shaped island of Borgen and reach Huvudskär around midday. Here you'll find an old pilot and customs station, a lighthouse from the 1930s, and a small hostel housed in the old customs building. There is a water shortage on the island, so water must be brought along. This applies almost everywhere in the outer archipelago, for that matter. But now the wind picks up – the sea breeze has free rein out here on the open bays. In crosswinds, we push northwest to the west side of Fjärdlång, which provides better shelter. We've arranged to meet a friend and spend the evening on sun-warmed rocks sharing tall tales and paddling memories. A few years ago, we did a long trip along Greenland's west coast, and the year before that, a trip north of Lofoten in Norway. Fjärdlång is a nature reserve that also has a hostel.

We part ways the next morning and paddle out toward Ängsön, following the outermost skerries past Biskopsön and Söderö to Långviksskär. The journey is tough in choppy seas with persistent wind, now from the north – meaning headwind. Without windproof paddling jackets, we would have had to stay put and wait for better weather. Even if the wind isn't particularly cold, it quickly saps the strength from your body. You get chilled and easily seasick when it's very rough.

Continuing north to Långviksskär and Bullerö

Långviksskär is a nature reserve consisting of numerous low skerries with narrow passages between them, and it's a very pleasant area to paddle through. The area is exposed to weather and wind and requires good conditions to paddle to. About 8 kilometers due north lies Bullerön, a nature reserve well worth a visit. The headwind persists and we reach the small harbor after a tough paddle from skerry to skerry, resting and catching our breath after each short leg. On the island there is a nature center, guesthouse, and cultural trail.

Calm paddling outside the shipping lanes to the finish

From Bullerön, we turn northwest and paddle in toward Runmarö and closer to the mainland. To avoid the bird sanctuary west of Bullerö, we have to make a wide detour to the north. We spend the night on a small skerry next to Munkön with remarkable geological rock formations. Boat traffic is heavier here, closer to inhabited areas. We paddle along the east side of Runmarö, past Söderby brygga. The marine forecast last evening had warned of strong winds, but nothing came of it. We enjoy calm and fine weather all day. After the narrow strait at Skarp-Runmarö, we come out into the heavily trafficked shipping lane toward Sandhamn. An unpleasant passage that we want to leave behind as quickly as possible. At Hasselö and Harö, we find a very narrow passage, very suitable for kayaks, and come out into the easternmost part of Kanholmsfjärden. Here it's calm and quiet. In general, in Stockholm's archipelago, if you avoid the most visited natural harbors and guest marinas and stay far enough out from the developed middle archipelago, it's peaceful and easy to find spots for rest and overnight stays. We send a grateful thought to the Archipelago Foundation, which has ensured that large areas are preserved from development and kept open for outdoor recreation. We set up camp on Stora Skatholmen, one of the few islands where you can easily come ashore and pitch a tent in this inner part of the archipelago. From here, we conclude this week-long trip by paddling to Sollenkroka brygga, where friends are waiting to meet us.

The trip was completed during the first week of August and comprised the following daily stages:

Trosa havsbad – Arnholmarna, 27 km. Arnholmarna – Albroskär 41 km. Albroskär – Huvudskär – Fjärdlång 26 km. Fjärdlång – Långviksskär 26 km. Långviksskär – island next to Munkön 17 km. Munkön – Stora Skatholmen 24 km. Stora Skatholmen – Sollenkroka 6 km. Total 167 km

Olle Persson